The story
At Alter in Tongeren, chef Jo Grootaers directs a kitchen built around pure, ingredient-driven contemporary cuisine. The venue traces its roots to 2009 when it opened as Altermezzo, later rebranding to Alter in 2023 under his guidance alongside Lana Kelchtermans. Judges at Gault&Millau awarded the establishment a score of seventeen this year, recognizing a style that trusts the product rather than masking it. Jo prepares every plate with deliberate restraint, extracting natural flavors while keeping the composition clear and uncluttered.
The modern cooking approach shines through in dishes like North Sea crab paired with melon and elderflower, or Breton lobster balanced with pumpkin and sea urchin. Winter menus frequently highlight partridge cooked with tomato and tarragon, followed by a main course of Berugi beef served with fries and béarnaise sauce. A curated wine pairing complements each progression, while a separate cheese selection rounds out the savory courses. Every tasting path concludes with a dedicated tea ceremony, offering a calm transition before the final sweet notes of blood orange and dark chocolate appear.
Guests settle into wooden tables beneath the vaulted ceilings of a repurposed municipal school in Riksingen. Large windows frame the courtyard, while the original brickwork remains visible along the perimeter walls. Visitors can extend their meal onto the outdoor terrace when weather permits, or utilize the wheelchair-accessible routes through the kitchen entrance. The layout encourages unhurried conversation, allowing the seasonal cuisine to take center stage without visual distractions.
Recognition
Ambience
Location