The story
Chef Tom Rely and Kirsten Magits run La Cuenta in Mol together, bringing a shared focus on meticulous preparation to every service. The Gault&Millau jury awarded their efforts a score of 13 for 2026, citing the careful assembly of dishes and the attention paid to both taste and presentation. Guests encounter a quiet, comfortable setting within a stylishly renovated building, designed to let the food take center stage without distraction. This contemporary cuisine rests on a foundation of flavor balance, where ingredients are chosen to support one another rather than compete.
The menu balances rich proteins with root vegetables treated with precision. Knolselder becomes a millefeuille layered with smoked onion and shio koji beneath a salt crust. Langoustine pairs with oxtail and cauliflower in a white port sauce, while pheasant from Bretagne offers girolles and vin jaune. Salmon 'Red Label' arrives mi-cuit with ikura and salted lemon. Seasonal menus shift the focus; spring brings a three-way knolselder preparation with truffle and koji, and turbot appears with marigold and chamomile, resting on a silky asparagus base. The cuisine rewards patience, revealing layers of texture in every bite.
The dining room maintains a calm atmosphere within the renovated structure, allowing conversation to flow easily between tables. Service settles into a steady rhythm, with the kitchen shifting to multi-course tasting menus on weekends that emphasize cohesion over individual orders. Wine pairings integrate smoothly, ranging from house selections to curated options. A peach tart with white chocolate and lime provides a bright conclusion, while a cheese plate from Domus Casei offers a savory pause for those who prefer to end on dairy.
Recognition
Ambience